The "Ross of Mull" is the name given
to the "leg" of land which extends to the South and West of
Mull. It stretches from the Southern foot of Benmore to Fionnphort
in the West and is approximately 20 miles long.
The A849 is the main road and runs
along its Northerly edge, next to Loch Scridain. The road is single
track and quite "twisty" however, the scenery more than makes up
for any frustrations caused by the lack of straight bits. Please
remember to let following traffic pass by when you get to a passing place,
not everyone has the patience to admire the quite stunning vistas.
Several
very picturesque villages lie along the Ross of Mull, starting at the eastern
end is Kinloch (Click
to see panorama) and Pennyghael.(Click
to see panorama)
Pennyghael and Kinloch have two
Hotels and a shop/post office. Further down the road is a junction
where, if you turn left, you can drive to the famous Carsaig (Click
to see panorama). The reason for its fame is based on its location
for the film "I know where I'm going" and also for its dramatic "Arches".
Back onto
the main road again. Travelling along in a westerly direction, you
will see various organised groups of objects in the water, these are
fish
farms and the one with rows of black cylindrical objects is a Mussel
farm. It is another nine miles until you reach the small village
of Bunessan.(Click
to see panorama). Just before you reach the village you will see up
from the side of the road at the junction to Lee and Ardtun,a memorial
to Mary MacDonald, the poetess. Mary
is best known , however, for a melody that she wrote for the carol "Child
in a Manger". We know it today as "Morning has broken", or tune "Bunessan"
in the Hymnal. Also just before Buneassn is the Angora Rabbit farm,
a good place to break the journey, particularly for the children. Bunessan has
two general stores, a gift shop. If you happen
to be in the hotel lounge during the evening you can witness one of its
famous sunsets. No, this isn't a multi-coloured drink that places
you in a recumbent position but the setting sun performing at its most
colourful best. Bunessan has also recently opened a Historical Centre
which has been sponsored by the extensive efforts of the local people to
gather together family histories, events and stories from the area.
The centre doesn't look very impressive from the outside, as it is housed
in a "portacabin", but is an extremely good place to gain access to genealogical
records and local stories and history. Its'
main resource is its' very knowledgeable group of volunteers
Leaving
Bunessan, you can fork left on the road to Uisken. Uisken, and its
neighbour Aldalnish have two superb beaches. The southern coast
of Mull has many fine beaches, but these two are probably the most accessible
in this area. Taking the main road from Bunessan the next significant
turn is a few miles down the road to the right, and Kintra. Kintra
(Click
to see panorama) is a very picturesque little hamlet and is worth a
visit, just for its attractive bay an row of small cottages. Between
Bunessan and this turn to Kintra it is possible to get fuel at one of two
filling stations.
The final
village right at the end of the road is Fionnphort,(Click
to see panorama) which is the place to catch the ferry to Iona.
Fionnphort has bed and breakfasts
Seaview
and
a small restaurant and cafe, the Columba Heritage Centre as well as a very
well stocked general store/gift shop/hardware shop. If you go down
the road to the left at Fionnphort you come to Fidden. Camping is
allowed there, a point to remember if you are going to Iona. Camping
is not permitted on Iona at the moment.
If you continue on this road you
pass the entrance to the Highland
Renewal project. This project has very fine walks in a wildlife
regenerating area, as well as a deserted ruined village. The jewel
in the crown at the end of one of the longer walks is Tireragan
beech. Please go to the website for details. At the end of
the tarmac road is the footpath down to the beeches and Erraid. This
area has some of the most stunning beeches on Mull and on a sunny day with
light winds, is the nearest thing that we have to the Caribbean, the only
difference is the lack of crowds and pure peace and quiet. From this
area at low water you can visit Erraid, with its small community, observatory,
and David Balfour Bay (the bay where "Kidnapped" was filmed). However,
I must issue some strong advice here. Firstly, Erraid is a private
island and the community that live there are not set up to deal with visitors,
even though they are very friendly and "thinking people", so I would ask
you to respect their privacy. Secondly, the access to Erraid is tidal
and it is very possible to get "cut off". Finally, the terrain on
the island is very difficult and only fit, experienced walkers, should
attempt to get to David Balfour Bay and the "Hanging Stone".
Back in Fionnphort, as I mentioned earlier is the place to catch the ferry
to Iona. No visitors cars are allowed onto Iona and you must park
in Fionnphort. You have to pay and display at the parking area near
the ferry, however, just a few meters up the Fidden road, next to the Columba
Centre, the parking is free and plentiful. If you are staying in
Fionnphort for a few days then the Granite quarry is worth a walk and a
visit, as is the Columba centre. The Columba Centre is free and the
kids (and you for that matter) can dress up as monks to walk around.
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